
Visit to Dewas State: (25th August 1913) – The Maharaja of the Senior branch of the Dewas State in Central India proposed to take Thakur to his State during Janmastami in 1913 A.D. To communicate that invitation the Maharaja sent his Private Secretary to Sonamukhi and Thakurji accepting that invitation informed him that on 25th August, He with some of His devotees would start from holy Gaya for Dewas. In the meantime Thakur ordered the devotees of Calcutta, N.C. Ghosh etc., to join Him in the house of Shriyukta Rakhal Das Mukhopadhyaya Mahashaya, Public Prosecutor of Gaya and a distinguished devotee of His. Accordingly some devotees of Calcutta such as Shriyukta Ram Rakhal Ghosh, Dr. Shriyukta Nagendranath Malkar, adorable Sadananda Brahmachari (Bamacharan Chattopadhyaya) Sriyukta Radha Ballabh Seal, Santosh Kumar Raya of Private Secretary’s Office of the Simla Hills, Vamanadasa Mukhopadhyaya and Narayan Chandra Ghosh started from Calcutta on 23rd August, 1913. Sri Sri kind Thakur came already with Sri Mata Thakurani, youngest Masi Mata and Raimati Devi (Thakur’s daughter) and were waiting for them in Rakhal Babu’s house at Gaya. The Calcutta party arrived at Gaya and in the mid-day they got Lord’s prasad at Rakhal Babu’s house and what joy it was cannot be expressed in words.
The Private Secretary of the Maharaja of Dewas joined Thakur on the day previous to the Calcutta party’s coming. It was settled that they should start on the next day. The Secretary of the Maharaja kept a first class compartment reserved for Thakur, Thakurani, Thakur’s daughter and Masi Mata – up to Khandua station and booking second class tickets for each of the rest made them all get into the train. On reaching Khandua Station they had to change trains. Thakur, Thakurani, Raimati and Masi Mata got into the first class compartment while the rest boarded the second class compartment. To receive Thakur, the Minister of the Dewas Maharaja was waiting at Khandua. After “Ista gosthi” (hearty talks) with Thakur he also got into the train with them. Amongst them Sadananda Brahmachari was a good singer and his voice also was sweet. He kept all charmed by singing songs about Thakur all the way in the train.
It cannot be determined how many tunnels had to be crossed in reaching Indore from Khandua. The train was sometimes going from the top of one hill to the top of another by bridge, sometimes it was entering deep gloom while passing through a tunnel, sometimes like a snake it was proceeding in a zigzag manner round the body of the mountain. Below in the valley green corn fields were dancing in tune with the breeze swinging their heads in the sun, what a charmingly beautiful sight it was cannot be expressed in writing.
In due time the train reached Indore. Maharaja’s Private Secretary and the Minister got down as soon as the train stopped and made Thakur, Thakurani, Thakur’s daughter and Masi Ma get down from the train. The rest also had got down from the train. In the meantime Maharaja’s motor car was waiting in the station compound to take Thakurji to Dewas in accordance with the arrangements made by the Maharaja and for the devotees two phaeton carriages came. All getting into the car and carriages, they started with shouts of “Jai Haranath Kusum Kumari Jai.”
It is nearly 20 miles from Indore to Dewas. Thakur’s motor car taking Thakur reached Dewas long before them (the party of devotees). Maharaja came up to the gate at the boundary of His State and was waiting for Thakur with a guard of honour. As soon as Thakur reached the gate, auspicious musical bands began to play and Maharaja performed the “camphor (Karpur) Arati” before Thakur. He took Thakur to the upper storey of the Treasury Building where His residence was fixed. On the occasion of Thakur’s coming full jars (purna Kumbha) were established at the gate of that house and flags of various colours such as red, blue etc., were flying on its body.
The river Sipra was to be crossed in coming to Dewas from Indore. The two phaetons bringing the devotees were stopped beside the Sipra to change horses. Within that time the devotees got down there, changed their clothes, finished bath in the clear water of Sipra and sitting on its bank finished refreshments. Seeing that they were being late to reach Dewas, Thakur sent again the motor car in which He had gone to Dewas, to bring them. But its engine being disordered on the way, it was very late to reach them. When the party was nearly eight miles from Dewas, they met with that motor car. When the driver of that motor car informed them of Thakur’s intention, they got down from the phaetons, got into the motor car and reached Dewas at 4 p.m.
Waiting for them Thakur did not sit to eat till they came, and because Thakur did not eat, Maharaja and his family also remained without food. After the devotees reached, preparations for eating were made. They all were accommodated in a big hall on the upper storey of the said Treasury building and some separated rooms at another end of that house were fixed for Thakur, Thakuráni; – Thakur’s – daughter and Masi Mata, In a room beside the big ball arrangements for Thakur’s eating were made and in front of Him were given the seats for the devotees. To Central India eating is performed in a very pure manner. Each one is given Pinda’ to sit on and food articles arranged in plates and dishes are placed on a wooden seat (table) before the eater. The eating place of each is decorated with ‘Alpanas’ of various colours and at the time of eating fragrant incense sticks are burnt beside each one. The people of that country sit to eat wearing silk clothes at the time of eating. At the time of eating, the Maharaja came and stood before Thakur to supervise service to Him. Thakur went on giving him Prasad taking it from His own plate with His own hand ordering him to sit beside the devotees. The Maharaja also sat with them and received Prasad, ete. For the few days Thakur remained at Dewas, Maharaja came barefooted daily from his palace and received Prasad along with them and it cannot actually be described of what a wonderful sort that Prasad was.
The Maharaja decided to spend one thousand rupees daily for the service of Sri Haranath, Thakurani and their devotees as long as they were his guests. For the service of each of the devotees there were two servants, day and night they remained near them and did what was needed to them at once. Including the Lord they were ten who went, for each of them were ten sets of silver vessels.
Every day about 13 or 14 varieties of curries were prepared. The devotees did not know their names, they were so delicious that there was no desire to give up anything when they sat to eat. “Gavya Ghrita” (ghee prepared from cow’s milk) of Dewas was very pure and equally fragrant and with various sweetmeats prepared with that “Bhoga” was daily offered to Sri Sri Thakur. During their stay at Dewas five horse phaeton carriages for their (devotees) travel were kept ready at their disposal.
People in general believe that the sentiment of devotion does not rise in the heart if one lives in the midst of riches (pomp and magnificence) but that idea of theirs was removed on seeing the Maharaja of Dewas. One was surprised to see Maharaja’s humility befitting a Vaishnava and arrangements for worship and festivals etc., daily and occasional, of the idols established by his ancestors. When the Maharaja came and mixed with them, it could by no means be understood from his gait and movements, his gesture and posture that he was the Lord of so big a State; he was thoroughly without egotism.
One day during their stay at Dewas the Maharaja arranged for Thakur’s inspection of the jail. Thakur was highly gratified to see the good arrangements for the stay of the convicts in the jail. On this auspicious occasion of Thakur’s setting foot in the jail some convicts were set free on the next day to show honour to Him. The Lord and His party also visited some important places and buildings of the State, such as the School, the General Hospital etc. The whole State resounded with Harinam and Sankirtan. The Maharaja ordered the shop-keepers not to take money for any purchases made by the members of the party, but to send the bills to the State Treasury for payment. None of the party made any valuable purchases. A number of photos were taken of the visit at the various stages of its progress and also a group photo of the party together with Maharaja and his staff.
On another day the Maharaja arranged for a forest feast for them. Some huge elephants, being well dressed, were waiting to take them to a minor forest near the city. In the morning they, after washing mouth etc., and drinking tea became ready when the Maharaja’s Secretary came to take them to the forest with him. An elephant with a silver seat (Howda) was fixed for Thakur, Thakurani, His daughter etc., and two other elephants were dressed well to take the devotees and some riding horses also were waiting at the door. Thakur, Thakurani and His daughter mounted the elephant with silver seat and the rest being divided into two groups mounted the other two elephants and each of the Maharaja’s Officers who came to take them riding a horse, their procession moved towards the forest. To watch that procession many people gathered on both sides of the road and on the roofs of the houses beside the road.
When the procession entered the jungle the natural beauty of that place overwhelmed all of them with surprise. While going by the forest the elephants of the devotees broke with their trunks big branches of the trees that stood by the side, swallowed their leaves and small twigs and thus proceeded. After about two hours they reached an open space in the forest. When in accordance with the Maharaja’s order food articles in profuse quantities, pots, pans etc., arrived there by a bullock-cart and the work of cooking commenced.
In the meantime the devotees went on foot to see the beauty of the forest all around. There was a high hill not very far from them. They reached that hill with Thakur. From what they could see from outside they inferred that a cave went far inside piercing through the body of the hill. As the inside of the cave seemed to be terribly dark none of them dared to enter into it and Thakur also forbade them to enter into that. From the Maharaja’s Officers they heard that an image of Sri Sri Kali was established long ago inside that cave and coming there every day Shivaji Maharaj worshiped that image in solitude. From Thakur’s mouth they heard that the tunnel had gone up to “Ujjayini” and Shivaji finishing his worship of Kali, daily went by that secret path to worship Mahakala at “Ujjayini’? and again came back by that very path. Nearly for ten days they stayed in Dewas State. Sri Sri Mata Thakurani expressing Her desire to see Mahakala’s temple at Ujjayini, Maharaja made all the arrangements for Their going to Ujjayini.

The scene of taking leave of Dewas was very pathetic. As long as Thakur was at Dewas the Rani mother came from time to time and took Thakur’s feet-dust. Before they took leave they all gathered in the wide yard before the Maharaja’s palace and a group photo of all of them was taken at that time. At the time of taking that photo it was found that all the ladies of the place had gathered on the roof and the eyes of all of them were wet with tears, specially the Maharani had such a deep affection and devotion to Thakur that she sent her men to request Thakur to stay a few more days at Dewas and when she heard that they had no means of staying there anymore she became very much overwhelmed. As was the Maharaja of Dewas, so were his honourable ministers, liberal in nature, each a supremely modest Vaishnava, and it could not be said in what eye they all saw Thakur, each of them was eager to take Thakur to his own house and serve Him always. Thus during their stay at Dewas so many invitations came that it was quite impossible for Thakur to accept them. Most of them Thakur dismissed with sweet words. One or two invitations He had to accept and that too He did only with the consent of the Maharaja because the Maharaja did not at all like that Thakur would accept service anywhere else except in his own palace. But lest any one grieved at heart, the Maharaja arranged for two or three grand feasts during their stay at Dewas and to that feast were invited all the distinguished gentlemen of Dewas. In this way every one dwelling in that country had the opportunity of having Prasad together with Sri Sri Thakur. It cannot be said what greatness that Prasad had. Those who had once got an opportunity of having prasad with Thakur had been compelled to surrender with their knowledge their mind and heart to Thakur. On that account there was no cause of being astonished at the fact that all the people of that country-young and old, men and women shed tears for Thakur at the time of their going from Dewas. At the time of their taking leave the Maharaja presented various clothes, ornaments etc.. of great price to Thakur, Thakurani and their family, and those devotees that accompanied Thakur to Dewas, were each given a very precious turban embroidered with gold and a very fine silken Chadar (the upper cloth). (Haranath Smriti-X, Narrated by, Narayan Chandra Ghosh)
F. N. :Visit to Dewas in Thakur’s own words: “I do not know to fulfil what auspicious purpose Nityananda has brought me here. The Maharaja of this place is truly a god; on that account he has become the ruler of this Dewas, the land of Devas (gods). Truly I am beside myself at his love and care, so much care does not fit in with so hapless a fellow. All the people of this place are Krishna’s servants, the Maharaja is their leader, N. G. Shastri M.A., his Chief Officer and well-wisher, is really a saint; he has not the least pride of learning or position, very humble, very modest and calm. There is this great regret that I have not been able to take you here and show to you all these things. If Krishna grants that, there may be again this opportunity. Sadananda baba, Ram Rakhal, Santosh, Naran Dada, Nagen doctor Baba and others are with me. Your grand daughter-in-law also has occupied one side. Even today I cannot say when we shall return. While returning, perhaps we have to go via Bombay. Let us see; if it is convenient, that is, if there is money, I shall visit your Ashram and Sridham, I feel a desire to see the condition in which it has been thrown by the rainy season. This place is very beautiful, holy and cool, we have to use quilts at night. It lies on a plateau that extends far and wide in all directions, very fine. (Extract from a letter to Taraprasad Ghosh, Simla, dated 27-8-1913)
Jai Haranath Jai Kusumkumari Jai
Collected from, Lord Haranath – Antya Leela (Vol-3 ; Part-1), Written by A. Ramkrishna Sastry (1971) and the main content is from the book “Haranath Smriti-10th Lahari” narrated by Narayan Chandra Ghosh.
